Heavyweight Hoodie

Cut from the Seoul block. 460gsm cotton, drop shoulder, double-lined hood.

We sampled six 460gsm blocks before settling on this one. Three were Tokyo blocks — too clean, too narrow. Two were US heritage blocks — bombproof but the body sits wrong on anyone under 180cm. The sixth was a Seoul block adapted for the heavier fabric weight. That's the one.

Dropped shoulder seam +4cm from standard, sleeve +3cm, body -2cm. Hood is double-lined and weighted so it sits flat in the hood-up position without that flimsy K-mart drape. Drawcords are 4mm cotton with brass aglets — not the plastic crap that snaps off the second time you wash it.

Cuffs and hem are 2×1 rib at 1.5cm, properly enclosed for stretch recovery so they don't bag out after a season. There's a small mint embroidered period on the inside of the cuff that nobody will see except you. That's the point.

• ·Inside out, cold wash, mild detergent.
• ·Dry on a hanger — tumble drying breaks the rib.
• ·Iron on low if you must. Never on the embroidered period.